Do you hate your gray hairs or just want a change? Hair dyes are one of the most amazing inventions of all time–it’s a product that makes us feel younger, more confident and exciting. Naturally, the best way to get rid of that unwanted silver hair is with hair color. But if you’re trying to live a clean and non-toxic lifestyle, hair color formulas, for the most part, have a pretty toxic mix of chemicals that are unsafe and, in some cases, may be extremely harmful with regular use. You’ve trusted Mamavation to bring you topics like safest shampoos, safest cookware & safest deodorants, now join us as we tackle hair dye. And stick around for the end as we have ranked all the brands.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links to Amazon and was fact-checked by Rebecca Elizabeth Sherrick Harks, Registered Nurse.
I’m Just Going to Break it To You–Your Chances of Getting Cancer Increase with Regular Use of Hair Dye
Cancer sucks. There’s nothing happy about it. Most of us know someone who has cancer or knows someone who has lost their lives to cancer. But when it comes to women who regularly use hair dye, those numbers start to go up. Here’s a list of cancers that are linked to regular use of hair dyes. While many debate the overall risk of various cancers and whether they are caused by permanent dye and their ingredients, it seems clear that there is a risk.
It’s important to put this into perspective and understand that we are surrounded with carcinogens and hormone disruptors all the time. Hair dyes seem to be a bigger exposure to women, but if you improve other areas like cookware, the mattress you sleep on, and shampoo you use, it lessens the overall impact of your hair dye. In other words, if this is too much for you, start detoxing elsewhere.
Breast Cancer
A recent study out of Finland surveyed over 6,500 breast cancer patients, ages 22-60, and discovered that the odds of breast cancer increased by 23% among women who used hair dyes when compared to those that did not.
Bladder Cancer
A 2004 study suggested that there might be an increased risk of bladder cancer for people who dye their hair: “Overall, odds ratios (of getting bladder cancer) were somewhat elevated among women who began using hair dye after 1975, used dyes for more than 31 years and who used hair dyes more than 282 times.” Additionally, women who started regularly using hair dye before the age of 37 were also more at risk. While studies like these remain controversial, other studies have shown an increased risk of bladder cancer among professionals who use hair dye in their work (hairdressers and barbers).
Other Cancers
At least one study suggested a possible link between glioma, a type of brain cancer, and hair dye use. It was easy to find several studies linking permanent hair dye and leukemia, as well as at least one linking it to non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma.
13 Basic Ingredients Inside Hair Dyes That Are Toxic and Should Be Minimized As Much as Possible
P-Phenylenediamine (PPD)
Used in permanent color, especially darker shades. It may also be contaminated with 4-ABP, a human carcinogen. According to the FDA, this is a skin allergen and irritant. In fact, the FDA does not allow its use on the skin in the form of black henna temporary tattoos.
There is a lot of conflicting and missing data on this particular ingredient, including whether or not it’s banned in Europe, whether the FDA tried to ban it outright and more. It is banned in Canada. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics claims that it has long been suspected to be carcinogenic and may alter DNA when mixed with hydrogen peroxide but to date, the data is not rigorous enough to be conclusive. The EPA also lists it as a respiratory toxin.
Resorcinol
This is an endocrine disrupter that impacts thyroid function. Skin and eye irritant.
Aminophenol
This is a known endocrine disrupter and at least one study has linked it to thyroid tumors.
Ethanolamines (MEA, TEA, DEA)
Some products contained ethanolamines, which have been shown to cause cancer in animal lab studies. When in use with certain other chemicals, they can form nitrosamines, which are a possible human carcinogen. These chemicals can bioaccumulate, even hair dyes. They also may impact male reproductive health, pregnancies, and possibly damage the liver or kidney and cause neurotoxic effects.
Some products include Cocamide MEA, which is meant to be a safer form of ethanolamine. Unfortunately, it may contain traces of Cocamide DEA, which has the same effect of producing nitrosamines.
1-Naphthol
This is a possible endocrine disruptor. At least one study suggests it may be linked to sperm DNA damage.
Toluene, Toluene-2,5-Diamine, and 4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene
According to the CDC, toluene can impact your nervous system. Repeated exposure can lead to permanent problems and scientists are not sure if repeated low exposures will lead to permanent damage. Some studies have also suggested possible reproductive effects, such as spontaneous abortions, but it’s not clear. Toluene itself is the most harmful, but the other versions listed above are not completely safe either.
Quats
Short for ammonium quaternary sanitizers, quats have been linked to medical issues such as harming fertility, causing miscarriages, and severe birth defects in animal studies. Some are also endocrine disruptors. Certain quats can also release formaldehyde, even if the product does not contain any formaldehyde.
Ammonia
This chemical can harm eye, lungs, respiratory tract, and is very toxic for people with asthma or allergies.
Undisclosed Fragrance with Phthalates
Many hair colors employ undisclosed fragrances, likely to cover up the harsh chemical smell. These fragrances can come thousands of sources, so there is no way to tell what toxins are in them. There were few that did not have this ingredient. One problematic ingredient that could be hiding in “fragrance” is phthalate. Phthalates are an endocrine disruptor linked to cancers, weight gain, and infertility.
SLS/SLES
These surfactants can be an eye irritant. Some debate whether SLS is a carcinogen and other research states it may damage the immune system.
Lead Acetate (in “progressive” hair dye)
In October 2018, the FDA repealed approval for lead acetate as a color additive to hair dye. Progressive hair dyes may contain lead acetate but I did not find any thus far in the brands I checked.
Propylene Glycol
This petroleum-based ingredient is often contaminated with carcinogenic compounds such as 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide which can also cause reproductive system toxicity, headache, and nausea.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone
These allergens/irritants were found in a few brands. They are potentially neurotoxic and demonstrate organ toxicity in lab studies.
Important Notes About “Coal-Tar” Hair Dyes
Historically, some hair dye ingredients were a by-product of the coal industry. Today, most dyes are synthetic and are petroleum-based, NOT coal-tar based. However, the FDA never changed the name.
Mamavation’s Investigation of Hair Dyes–The Brands
As you can see, hair color is chockfull of harmful ingredients. Almost all brands had at least one or 2 of these chemicals. Others were a whole toxic soup of these plus many more.
Ready to see how your brand rated? Let’s take a look. Next to each brand is the number of toxins listed above their products contained.
The WORST Brands
These brands have 5 or more problematic ingredients inside their formulation. The number of problematic ingredients is listed next to the name. Some of these brands may advertise themselves as more natural, but in order for us to rank them higher, they would need to improve their formulations a bit.
- Aveda (6 bad ingredients)
- Calura (9 bad ingredients)
- Clairol Nice’N Easy Color Crème (7 bad ingredients)
- Clairol Nice & Easy Root Touch Up Semi-Permanent Colors AND Permanent Creme (7 bad ingredients)
- Clairol Natural Instincts (6 bad ingredients)
- Garnier Nutrisse (8 bad ingredients)
- Garnier Olia (8 bad ingredients)
- Ion (8 bad ingredients)
- John Frieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder Lightening Spray (5 or more bad ingredients)
- John Frieda Precision Foam Color (6-8 bad ingredients)
- Loreal Preference (8 bad ingredients)
- Madison Reed (8 or 9 bad ingredients)
- Pulp Riot (6 bad ingredients)
- Revlon Colorsilk (8 bad ingredients)
- Shea Moisture (7 bad ingredients)
- Wella Colour Charm Demi-Permanent (5 bad ingredients)
The BETTER Brands
These brands have 3-5 problematic ingredients inside their formulation. The number of problematic ingredients is listed next to the name. This is the sweet spot where you will find a compromise between your health and effectiveness.
- Arctic Fox (5 bad ingredients)
- Ecocolors (2 or 3 bad ingredients)
- Clairol Nice & Easy Root Touch Up Refreshing Spray (none listed above but does contain heavy metals)
- Herbatint (4 or 5 bad ingredients)
- John Frieda Color Refreshing Gloss (2 or 3 bad ingredients)
- John Frieda Brilliant Brunette Color Deepening Treatment
- Just for Men Touch of Grey (4 bad ingredients)
- Kristin Ess (3 bad ingredients)
- Lime Crime (5 bad ingredients)
- Loreal Feria (4 bad ingredients)
- Manic Panic (3 bad ingredients)
- Natratint (5 bad ingredients)
- Natulique (5 bad ingredients)
- Naturcolor (5 bad ingredients)
- Organic Hair Colour (5 bad ingredients)
- Sun-In, both products (4 bad ingredients)
- Tints of Nature Henna (4 bad ingredients)
- Tints of Nature Permanent Color (5 bad ingredients)
The BEST Brands
These brands have less than 3 problematic ingredients inside their formulation. The number of problematic ingredients is listed next to the name.
Beyond the Zone Color Jamz (2 bad ingredients, including undisclosed fragrance)
- Davines (1 bad ingredient)
- Dark & Lovely (0 bad ingredients)
- Desert Shadow (0 bad ingredients)
- Hairprint (0 bad ingredient)
- Henna Color Lab (0 bad ingredients)
- John Frieda Color Refreshing Gloss (2 bad ingredients, including undisclosed fragrance)
- John Frieda Brilliant Brunette Color Deepening Treatment (2 bad ingredients, including undisclosed fragrance)
- Light Mountain Henna (0 bad ingredients)
- Lush Henna (1 bad ingredient–undisclosed fragrance, but likely essential oils)
- Natulique Zero (1 bad ingredient)
- Morocco Method Simply Pure Henna (0 bad ingredients)
- Overtone Coloring Conditioner (1 bad ingredient)
- Palette by Nature (0 bad ingredients)
- Prevana (1 bad ingredient)
- Radico Color Me Organics (0 bad ingredients)
- Rainbow Research Henna (0 bad ingredients)
- Saach Organics (0 bad ingredients)
- Sante Herbal Hair Color (0 bad ingredients – some colors had a fragrance but claim they are essential oils)
- Surya Brazil Henna Powder
- Tints of Nature Highlights (2 bad ingredients)
How Toxic Is Your Toilet Paper? Investigation of Brands
have you checked O and M ? ( original and mineral)
What about Framesi hair color and
Swartzkopf hair color
What about Vidal Sassoon? VS. My wife uses 6RR London Luxe Pro Series. Which list would you put it on?
Have you researched the ingredients in Redken Hair Color?
Hi! Thank you so much for your research and for this helpful helpful information! Thank you for the list of safer colors to choose from. I will research those ingredients as well.
Although henna has been around for 5000 years and is considered safe, the molecule responsible for color in henna is Lawsonia which is a quinone. It is some kind of estrogen and i’ve read studies that demonstrate that it causes a hormonal and balance because it is an estrogen. They injected it into pregnant mice and it caused miscarriages. I know we don’t inject lawsonia into ourselves when we use henna, but that stuff does need to sit on your head for three hours or so to effectively deposit its stain, and some people even leave it on overnight. It is an abortifacient due to the hormonal imbalance it causes; working in a similar way as the pill.
Just because something is herbal, does not mean it is not powerful or even toxic.
Most pharmaceutical drugs come from herbs or plants. They’re just processed and put into pill form.
What about Earth Dye. Have you researched that one? Thanks!
What about oway?
So what brands do you recommend for Salons? I see mostly ones that you would purchase through a store. Specifically, All-Nutrient, Goldwell, Schwartzkof and a few others that I can’t think of right now. Thank you.
Hello! What is the one bad ingredient in Overtone? Super interested in trying it. Thanks for the awesome article!
What about hair salon color
I used ion hair dye today and it stunk and burned. It was so toxic and I have been sick all day from it. The lady at sallys said it was good and I told her I was sensitive. She said that was great and not as harmful. I use Revlon color silk and never had a reaction from it. Theres no amonia or hatch smells. I feel its way beeter than all the others ive tried. Even though its on your list. I saw that in 2014 they went paraben free plus they are ammonia free and its always made my hair feel better than before I dyed it. The Ion product damaged my hair so bad!
Harsh smells and better. Oops!
I ended up ordering dark and lovely because of this list and it really looks full of chemicals. I guess I’m not understanding how overtone would have one bad ingredient and dark and lovely has zero?? Or how natritint has five or something and dark and lovely has zero??
I just discovered this, Biokap Nutricolor Delicato which I purchase from Vitacost.com. It has no Ammonia, Resorcin, Parabens and para-Phenylenediamine(PPD). It has no fragrance whatsoever and is nickel free. It is the only hair color that my doesn’t make my hair fall out, color lasts a long time, and no scent at all. I also use their shampoo sometimes. What do you think of this product?
https://www.vitacost.com/Images/Products/500/BioKap/Biokap-Nutricolor-Delicato-Permanent-Hair-Dye-1-0-Natural-Black-8030243010414.jpg
Hey can you link me to the ingredients?
Shhoooot…. i just saw this. So sorry…
https://www.biokapusa.com/nutricolor-products/nutricolor-delicato/permanent-hair-colors-delicato-1-00-natural-black-4-67-oz.html
AQUA/WATER, STEARIC ACID, LAURAMIDE MEA, ETHANOLAMINE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL,
TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE SULFATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PALMITIC ACID, GLYCERIN, ARGANIA
SPINOSA (KERNEL) OIL
But look what I found in the Biokap Italian Website….
.Organic Aloe Vera bio for a protective action on the scalp.
Red Vine, Rosemary, Nettle, Olax dissitiflora, Saw Palmetto for a purifying effect and a specific and proven reinforcing action.
Cactus, Agave, Burdock, Helichrysum, Melaleuca Alternifolia, Willow, Jojoba Oil, Avocado and sweet almonds for a regulating and restructuring activity on the different types of hair (dry, brittle, coloured, greasy , with dandruff).
Vegetable proteins (soya, rice and oats), Willow extract, Lipophilic acids from fruits and Argan Oil so to make the hair dyeing a restructuring treatment.
Vegetable “Fytokeratin” from rice and ceramides from olive oil to restructure the hair.
Very different from the Biokap USA website!!!
I’m a stylist with Surface Hair Health. I recommend those to find a salon near you using those products and color.
Checked out prices on those hair dyes which are said to contain no bad ingredients, way too high for my budget. Also how come they are only offered on Amazon? Have you any idea what Bezo’s does to his employees? Who wants to make that creep even richer?
schwarzkopf?
Just so you know, Quats is not an ingredient that is in any hair color.
There is no mention of Koleston — the last time I used it in February my scalp was dies dark brown and now my hair is starting to fall out. I have noticed lately that it is not available as it once was. I bought the last time in Mexico and can no longer find it here in Canada.
Hi Leah,
Can you please look into Oway? They are supposed to be organic and ammonia free.
https://www.oway.it/en/products/color-and-shape/
I use ESalon – online company, create your color. How safe ate their dyes?
Link me to their ingredients please!
I am curious about the surya brand henna powder because I use to use their haircolor always wondered, but I noticed there wasnt specifics after it in your ratings plus I thought if correct in my memory it was a premixed product. Thanks
I love it.
I canceled my Madison-Reed subscription and am trying a couple others mentioned to see how they work. Thanks for the info!
You’re welcome!
How about revlon i used revlon alone no other than. Needs info please
Hi how about salon brands like color fusion by redken?
You didn’t do salon/professional brands?
One more thing: as in the mattress listings ( thank you) you get confusing right before listing them, probably to avoid lawsuits, I get it- but make your list: WORST MATTRESS, WORST HAIR COLOR then list the products without any qualifiers, apologies, conditions or anything. Just WORST
1.
2.
3.
Because the message gets dumbed down when you add paragraphs about if they took out a few bad ingredients (hair color) etc. or didn’t engage in deliberately deceptive advertising (mattress). Okay?
Thank you very much for this critical info- I’ve often wondered what the effects were of hair color products on our water supply. Just imagine. Is it GMO corn or hair color that’s the cause of autism. I mean, really…. no one would even stop using it. And you don’t DARE mention hair color as a potential problem. It’s social suicide ( I know). You are brave!!! Thank you!!!
Are you planning to do salon dyes?
Curious, also. There are not very many salon quality/professional brands listed here.
This is a great question! Most of the brands that you see up there post their ingredients. Or we were able to get them somehow to rank them. Most of the salon dye brands do NOT post their ingredients online. So if you would like to help us get more brands ranked, just take a picture the next time you are at the salon and send to us and I’ll rank them for you!
Hello! Can you review Kevin Murphy hair dye? Thanks!!
Sure we can add this later today! Thanks for stopping by!
Hi Ashley, I am waiting to hear back from them. They only have partial list of ingredients on their site!
Thank you for the update! I can’t wait to find out! The salon I go to uses them!
I used ion hair dye today and it stunk and burned. It was so toxic and I have been sick all day from it. The lady at sallys said it was good and I told her I was sensitive. She said that was great and not as harmful. I use Revlon color silk and never had a reaction from it. Theres no amonia or hatch smells. I feel its way beeter than all the others ive tried. Even though its on your list. I saw that in 2014 they went paraben free plus they are ammonia free and its always made my hair feel better than before I dyed it. The Ion product damaged my hair so bad!
Paul Mitchell not listed? Have any info on their brand or product The Color?
Next time you go to the salon, can you snap a picture of the ingredients for me? Then we can get it up here.
This is one I reached out to. Still waiting to hear.
what about Original And Mineral?
Hi Gina, so the good news is they don’t use the 3 BIG BAD chemicals (ammonia, resorcinol and PPD), nor several others on their list. I have to reach out for complete ingredient list, but I’m going to guess they’ll land at worst on better – don’t quote me yet though!
thank you!
Any news on the Original Mineral?
Why do you mention manic panic twice? First with 3 bad ingredients and then with one 1 bad ingredient. Is there any difference between the colours?
No that was a mistake, I’m so sorry. It’s on better, not best.
This is amazing! Thank you so much for this investigation! I’ve been getting gray hairs!
Our pleasure!
What about Pulp Riot?
Hi Melissa, I can check it out!
Thank you for this, Leah! Could you tell me how Framesi would rate?
Hi Claudine! Because Framesi is a spray, it doesn’t have any of THESE ingredients, but I don’t know if those are toxic elements particular to hairspray. We are including this in our hair spray / product investigation which is right after the next one Mamavation is doing.